Tag Archives: vintage french cooking

Oreilles de Porc au Fromage (Pigs’ Ears with Cheese Sauce)

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ingredients:
4 pigs’ ears
salt
2 carrots
2 onions
4 cloves
1 sprig thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
pepper
1 Tablespoon flour
2 Tablespoons butter
juice of 1 lemon
½ cup crumbled cantal or mild cheddar cheese
2 egg yolks, slightly beaten
1 cup heavy cream
nutmeg

instructions:

  1. Singe the ears and scrub them thoroughly. Place them in cold salt water, bring to a boil, and skim.
  2. Peel, wash, and slice the carrots. Add them to the ears together with the onions studded with cloves, the thyme, bay leaf, and pepper. Cook for 4 hours.
  3. Prepare a light brown roux with the flour and 1 tablespoon butter. Add 1 cup of the broth prepared in Step 2, cooking and stirring constantly until it thickens. Let cool.
  4. Stir in the egg yolks, cream, and lemon juice into the cooled sauce. Pour over the pigs’ ears and sprinkle with the cheese and a little grated nutmeg.
  5. Place in a buttered baking dish, dot with butter, and bake in a hot oven for 15 minutes.

A roux is a mixture made from equal parts of butter (or other fat) and flour cooked together for varying periods of time, depending upon its final use. It is the thickening agent in sauces and gravies. In this recipe the roux should be cooked only about 3 or 4 minutes, or until its color is light brown.

©Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Pochouse de Verdun-sur-le-Doubs (Freshwater Fish Stew)

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ingredients:
3 pounds fish
3 onions
2 cloves
10 cloves of garlic
5 ounces diced fresh (not smoked) bacon
1 bay leaf
1 fresh sprig of ½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 bottle dry white burgundy wine
2 ounces Burgundy marc or brandy
4 ounces butter
1 Tablespoon flour
3 Tablespoons heavy cream
1 cup toasted thin slices of French bread, rubbed with garlic

instructions:
1. Clean the fish. Cut off the heads and cut the fish into thick slices.


2. Mince the onions. Stud the garlic with the cloves. Heat the bacon. Sauté the onions in the bacon, seasoning with the bay leaf and thyme until the onion becomes transparent.


3. Place the fish heads over the onions. Salt and pepper to tasted. Add the fish and wine. Increase the heat and simmer for 10 more minutes.

4. Pour the marc or brandy over the soup and ignite. This will eliminate the acidity of the wine, which has not cooked sufficiently in this short time.

5. Remove the pieces of fish. Strain, and set the resulting “court-bouillon” aside.

6. Make a roux by blending flour and butter. Add to the strained court-bouillon. Simmer for 10 minutes.

7. Remove from heat and add the cream. Place the fish over the croutons. Cover with the sauce.

You may use any freshwater fish, but the real recipe is made with pike, perch, and eel or river ling.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Tarte au Fromage Blanc (Cream Cheese Pie)

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ingredients:
For the crust:
1 stick + 1 Tablespoon butter
9 ounces whole wheat flour
1 cup vanilla-flavored sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 egg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1 or 2 Tablespoons water

For the filling:
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons flour
1 ½ cups milk
salt
3 Tablespoons sugar
2 beaten eggs
9 ounces cream cheese
1 handful raisins
cinnamon to taste

instructions:

The crust:
1. Melt the butter in the top of a double boiler.
2. Sift the flour into a large bowl. Make a “well” in the center.
3. Gradually stir in the butter and mix lightly.
4. Add the sugar, salt, the slightly beaten egg, cinnamon and water.
5. Knead the dough for a short time, then set aside in a cool place for 30 minutes.
6. Place this dough in a buttered mold, lining the sides. Prick the surface with a fork.

The filling:
1. Prepare a white sauce with the butter, flour, milk and salt.
2. Remove from the heat and add the sugar, eggs, cream cheese and raisins. Sprinkle with cinnamon and mix well.
3. Pour the mixture into the mold. Bake in a moderate oven for 30 to 40 minutes.
4. Serve warm or cold.

This pie, together with a fruit salad, makes an excellent meal.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Jambon Persillé (Jellied Ham with Parsley)

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ingredients:
2 pounds ham (or whole ham) uncooked
½ to 1 pound veal shank
1 or 2 fee of veal
3 or 6 shallots
1 bay leaf
2 fresh sprigs or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 fresh sprigs or 1 teaspoon dried chervil
1 fresh sprig or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon
1 or 2 bottles white Burgundy
½ cup or 1 cup minced parsley
1 or 2 Tablespoons wine vinegar

instructions:

  1. Place ham in a deep kettle. Cover with cold water. Cook over moderate heat for 1 hour to remove the rind.
  2. Place the ham in a large saucepan. Add the veal shank, calf’s foot or feet, shallots and herbs. Pepper. Add the wine. Cook over very low heat until a tablespoon of the liquid dropped on a cold dish jellies; this should take about 20 minutes per pound of meat.
  3. Taste the seasoning, add a little salt if necessary. Remove the ham. Break the meat with a fork, mixing the fact and lean parts.
  4. Alternate layers of parsley and ham in a large bowl.
  5. Before the stock cools completely, add the vinegar. Strain the stock and pour it over the ham. Press down firmly. Refrigerate.
  6. Unmold before serving.

In Bourgogne, this dish is traditional for Easter.
For 4 people, use 2 pounds of ham; for a larger group, the whole ham. If you do not have a large serving bowl, use several small ones.
This dish keeps very well if refrigerated.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Crevettes au cidre (Shrimp in Apple Cider)

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ingredients:
2 cups of hard cider
½ cup coarse salt
4 cups water
1 pound tiny raw shrimp

instructions:
1. Put the cider, salt and pepper in water. Bring to a slow boil and continue boiling for 10 minutes until the salt has dissolved completely.

2. Put the shrimp in the boiling liquid. Continue to boil gently for 5 minutes, shaking the saucepan from time to time. Drain.

3. Serve warm with fresh butter.

Hard cider is the Normandy drink, par excellence. It is used like wine in cooking, but not as frequently. It adds, however, its special taste to numerous recipes.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Bifteck haché aux germes de blé (Hamburgers with wheat germ)

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ingredients:
4 ounces oatmeal
5 ounces milk
13 ounces ground beef
1 egg
1 Tablespoon toasted wheat germ
salt, pepper
2 Tablespoons whole-wheat flour
½ teaspoon thyme
1 Tablespoon safflower oil

instructions:

  1. Soak the wheat germ in the milk for 15 to 20 minutes. Beat the egg in a bowl.
  2. Mix the meat thoroughly with the oatmeal, egg, and wheat germ. Salt and pepper.
  3. Shape into 8 meatballs or patties, and dust them with flour. Sprinkle them with thyme.
  4. Fry them with the oil for 8 minutes on each side.

Do not keep the ground meat more than 3 hours, even in the refrigerator; an infant can then eat it safely. Toasted wheat germ is available in health-food stores and most supermarkets.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Aligot (Potato Purée)

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ingredients:
1 clove garlic
12 ounces unripened soft cheese (traditionally cantal)
1 pound potatoes
2 ½ Tablespoons butter
1 ¼ cups heavy cream
pepper, salt

instructions:

  1. Crush the garlic. Slice the cheese very thin, or shred it if you wish. But do not grate it.
  2. Wash the potatoes carefully and boil them unpeeled in salt water for 30 minutes. Then peel and mash them immediately. Stir the purée over a low heat to dry it somewhat.
  3. Mix in the butter, cream, garlic, salt and pepper.
  4. Add the cheese continue to stir the purée. You will gradually obtain a homogenous threading mixture.
  5. Serve immediately, since this purée cannot wait.

This distinctive purée will particularly enhance a roast beef dinner.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Pounti Auvergnat (Meat Cake)

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ingredients:
8 pitted prunes
1 teaspoon fresh yeast
1 cup milk
½ cup beet leaves
8 sprigs parsley
1 sprig (or ½ teaspoon dried) tarragon
4 sprigs (or 1 teaspoon dried) chervil
1 cup leftover meat
½ pound bacon
2 onions
⅓ cup flour
4 eggs
salt, pepper
2 Tablespoons peanut oil, walnut oil, or safflower oil

instructions:

  1. Soak the prunes in water or wine. Dissolve yeast in a tablespoon of warm milk. Was the beet leaves and the herbs.
  2. Grind the meat, bacon, onions, beet leaves, and herbs.
  3. Blend in the flour, eggs, salt, and pepper. Add the milk so as to obtain a thick, creamy liquid; add the yeast and prunes.
  4. Heat the oil in a flameproof dish or Dutch oven over a low flame. When the oil is very hot, pour in the batter. Transfer the dish to a moderate oven and bake it for 30 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

In Auvergne, this meat cake is reheated by cutting it into slices and frying them in walnut oil, butter, or bacon fat.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Daube Froide/Beef in Aspic (Réunion Island)

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ingredients:
2 pounds thinly sliced lean beef (from the rump or round)
¼ pound lean bacon strips
2 onions
2 shallots
2 cloves garlic
1 handful parsley
1 sprig thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
salt, pepper
nutmeg
4 ounces fresh bacon fat
1 Tablespoon flour
2 cups dry white wine
1 calf’s foot
1 teaspoon agar-agar or Japanese Moss
1 cup beef bouillon

instructions:

  1. Flatten the beef slices and season with salt and pepper.
  2. Chop one onion, the shallots, garlic and parsley. Sprinkle in the finely chopped thyme and bay leaf. Add salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. Mix thoroughly.
  3. On each slice of beef place a slice of bacon and spread some of the herb mixture on it. Pile the seasoned slices into a “tower” and press as flat as possible. End with a slice of beef, then tie the entire pile together with string so it will not fall apart while cooking.
  4. Mince the bacon fat and the remaining onion, sprinkle with flour, and add any remaining herb mixture there may be. Brown lightly in a Dutch oven. Add the wine, the calf’s foot, and the securely-tied beef slices. Cover and cook over low heat for 3 hours.
  5. When done, remove the meat from the pot. Dissolve the agar-agar in the bouillon and add it to the liquid in the Dutch oven.
  6. Place the meat into a mold and strain the liquid over it. Refrigerate. The sauce will jell. Unmold when ready to serve, and garnish with sprigs of parsley.

This dish is ideal for a meal served outdoors. As agar-agar and Japanese Moss are not readily obtainable, plan unflavored gelatine may be substituted, using a little less liquid than the instructions call for, in order to obtain a stiffer gelatine.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING; a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.

Grenouilles Savoyardes (Frog Legs Fricassee)

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ingredients:
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 onions, chopped
24 skewered frog legs
3 ½ Tablespoons butter
2 eggs
1 Tablespoon vinegar

instructions:

  1. Remove the frog legs from the skewers; cut off the toes with scissors.
  2. Lightly brown the garlic and onions in the butter. Add the frog legs and sauté rapidly, turning them over. Lower the heat and cook 25 minutes.
  3. Pour the eggs, slightly beaten, over the cooked frog legs. Let them set.
  4. Remove to a serving dish. Pour the vinegar in the hot pan, bring to a boil and pour over the frog legs.

To test if the frog legs are sufficiently cooked, lightly pinch the flesh, which is soft when they are done.

© Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., Japan, 1971. Published in the United States and Canada by BOBLEY PUBLISHING, a division of Illustrated World Encyclopedia, Inc. Printed in Japan.